The Perfect Dress Shirt
What makes the perfect dress shirt? At Deo Veritas we've developed a good idea of what to look for. Here are the basics to a shirt's anatomy.
Deo Veritas collars feature a four piece assembly which guarantees a secure, durable construction. Collar points lie flat and will not 'pucker' outwards. Topstitching is located approximately 1/8" from the edge of the collar. Shirts come with the option of removable or sewn collar stays. From classics to contemporary, Deo Veritas offers twelve (12) different collar styles. In addition, each is available with the option of fused or sewn interlinings. Click the interlining description for additional information associated with this option.
Forward Point Collar as shown
The fabric placed between the two layers of actual shirt cloth at the cuffs, placket, and collar – giving additional strength to those areas. Interlinings can be either be fused (glued) or sewn. Neither is the wrong choice, but you should be aware of the differences associated with each. Deo Veritas offers either fused or sewn interlinings.
Fused interlinings are heated and glued together, a popular choice among off the rack shirts since it translates well to a large production environment. Fused interlinings themselves are more rigid and stiff, maintaining a formal crispness. Sewn (non-fused) collars are softer in feel and are held together by stitching rather than glue. This is the traditional method that is seen mostly on made to measure / bespoke shirts. Sewn interlinings have a timeless look and feel and also tend to last longer than their fused counterparts.
These allow for comfort and flexibility across the shoulders of the shirt. When the individual wearing the shirt moves his arms, the additional fabric folded into the pleats affords the wearer more flexibility. Pleats are located on the back of the shirt, at the seam that separates the back and yoke. Three pleat styles are offered by Deo Veritas – Center, Side, or None. Selecting None may reduce flexibility for some wearers.
Side Pleats as shown
Single Needle Stitching
All Deo Veritas shirts feature single needle stitching. A traditional as well as costly method, that produces stylish and durable seams (minimum of 16 stitches per inch throughout)
The main distinctions between cuffs are whether they require buttons or cufflinks to fasten, and whether they are folded back (French) or single. Deo Veritas currently offers eight (8) different cuff styles (of each type below).
Barrel cuffs are the standard, coming in a variety of styles. The standard style is fastened by one or two buttons (on occasion three), according to taste. Fold back cuffs, such as French cuffs, tend to be worn more formally. They are twice as long as standard cuffs and then folded back, secured with cufflinks. Convertible cuffs (also known as the Cocktail cuff) have a similar fold back as the French cuff, but are secured with buttons rather than cuff links.
2 Button Angle Cut Cuffs as shown
The double layers of fabric that hold the buttons and button-holes in a shirt. Plackets are almost always made of more than one layer of fabric, and often have interlining in between the fabric layers. This is done to give support and strength to the placket fabric because the placket and the fasteners on it are often subjected to stress when the garment is worn. The two sides of the placket often overlap. There are three types of placket styles offered – Placket Front, French Front, and Fly Front (hidden buttons).
French Placket as shown
Deo Veritas imports fabric from some of the best shirting manufacturers in the world, e.g. Thomas Mason, Forno, and Tessitura Monti.... Smooth, breathable, and comfortable – our fabrics are certain to stand the test of time and wear. From entry level basics to high end exclusives, Deo Veritas has over 175 fabrics in a variety of colors and patterns. Learn more about our fabrics here.
Super White Dobby Fabric as shown
The sleeve placket extends from the top of the cuff up the sleeve length. The rationale behind the sleeve placket is that it makes for a better fit around the forearm and it allows the sleeves to be more easily rolled up.
The yoke is a fabric on the upper back of the dress shirt, supporting the strain of the shoulders and upper back. Most off the rack shirts use a single piece of fabric, called a one piece yoke. A split yoke (seen more on tailored shirts) consists of two fabric panels that are secured and sewn down the middle. It also ensures a tailored fit across the slope of the shoulders. All Deo Veritas come with a split yoke standard.