Menswear | Shirts

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview

Lloyd Hughes

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics.

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview: Soktas

When you’re pick­ing fall & win­ter dress shirt fab­rics, there are var­i­ous ele­ments you should con­sid­er, includ­ing the type of fab­ric and how you’ll wear it. If your job involves going out­side, or a lot of trav­el, you’ll want to look at the warmest options.

If you wear your suit jack­et in a heat­ed office all day, then a fab­ric at the lighter end of the scale would be more appro­pri­ate.

Let’s take a look at how the var­i­ous options mea­sure up to the task of keep­ing you warm while help­ing you look pro­fes­sion­al through­out your work day.

Fall and Winter shirting fabrics with heat retaining properties.

Heat reten­tion depends on the heav­i­ness of the fab­ric. Many types of fab­ric can come in var­i­ous weights, using var­i­ous dif­fer­ent types of yarns.

Silk is inher­ent­ly light­weight and while it has some tem­per­a­ture mod­er­at­ing qual­i­ties, it will only keep you warm in cool tem­per­a­tures – not the freez­ing cold of win­ter.

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview: cotton fabric deo veritas

An easy-going cot­ton in a ging­ham from Deo Ver­i­tas.

Cot­ton has good heat reten­tion, mak­ing it an appro­pri­ate choice for shirts to be worn under jack­ets. Pure cot­ton is still the most pop­u­lar choice of fall & win­ter dress shirt fab­rics, prefer­ably Egypt­ian cot­ton, which has the longest fibers.

Longer fibers mean fin­er, stronger yarns. Sea Island and Amer­i­can Pima cot­ton are also desir­able types. Wool, prefer­ably a soft meri­no wool, is the best nat­ur­al fab­ric for heat reten­tion, and it has nat­u­ral­ly fire retar­dant prop­er­ties too.

One caveat about cot­ton: It does not wick away mois­ture. So, if you choose a cot­ton shirt, it’s prob­a­bly best to wear an under­shirt of silk or a silk-cot­ton blend.

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview: caccioppoli

A swatch book full of var­i­ous warmer fab­rics, from the famous Ital­ian mer­chant Cac­ciop­poli.

Fall & Winter dress shirt fabrics to consider.

On the loom, the yarn is woven top to bot­tom (warp) and left to right (weft). When you are pick­ing fall & win­ter dress shirt fab­rics, here’s a handy ref­er­ence list ranked from warmest to light­est:

1. Flannels.

You wouldn’t wear a flan­nel shirt with your tuxe­do, but in more casu­al sit­u­a­tions, it’s the warmest shirt fab­ric you’ll find.

Flan­nel can be made of cot­ton, cotton/wool or cotton/cashmere blends, and has a soft feel. Typ­i­cal­ly made with thick­er yarns, the sur­face is mechan­i­cal­ly brushed to cre­ate the slight­ly fuzzy tex­ture.

Brushed cot­ton has a slight­ly less fuzzy tex­ture and is lighter in weight than flan­nel, but thick­er and warmer than oth­er dress shirt fab­rics.

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview: melange flannel deo veritas

A selec­tion of melange flan­nels from Deo Ver­i­tas.

2. Twill fabrics.

Twill fab­rics have a vis­i­ble diag­o­nal in the weave. They are soft­er, thick­er, and warmer than poplin or broad­cloth, and may be made of cot­ton or wool.

How­ev­er, twill fab­rics may wrin­kle more eas­i­ly. Her­ring­bone, hound­stooth, cav­al­ry, and gabar­dine are types of twill fab­ric. Small twill weaves can be made into dress shirts.

3. Oxford fabrics.

Oxford fab­ric fea­tures a tex­ture that is slight­ly rough, using heav­ier threads in a loos­er weave than pin­point or broad­cloth. Some of the warp or weft yarns are tak­en togeth­er to cre­ate a bas­ket weave.

It is among the most durable of shirt fab­rics. Pin­point, or pin­point Oxford fab­ric uses a fin­er yarn and tighter weave than tra­di­tion­al Oxford cloth, pro­duc­ing a more for­mal look. Pin­point is usu­al­ly heav­ier, thick­er, and warmer than cot­ton broad­cloth.

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview: oxford ad twill shirts

A selec­tion of oxford and twill fab­rics from Deo Ver­i­tas.

4. Broadcloth fabrics.

Broad­cloth is a dense­ly woven fab­ric that may be warmer or lighter depend­ing on the type of yarn. It comes in cot­ton, silk, and even linen ver­sions, although it is tra­di­tion­al­ly made of wool for a warm fall & win­ter shirt fab­ric.

Broad­cloth uses a plain over-under weave that cre­ates a sub­tle sheen, while the tight­ness of the weave makes it weath­er­proof and durable.

Cot­ton broad­cloth is often used for dressier shirts and can be made with very fine cot­ton yarns for an almost trans­par­ent look, espe­cial­ly in white.

5. Poplins.

Poplin is a soft, smooth, durable fab­ric made of fine yarns in a plain weave, often mis­tak­en for broad­cloth. It is thin and light­weight, mak­ing it a good choice for wear under jack­ets.

Non-iron fab­rics are typ­i­cal­ly made of syn­thet­ic fibers that have been chem­i­cal­ly treat­ed. Their breath-abil­i­ty and feel make them a last resort, best suit­ed for those who absolute­ly have no time for iron­ing.

Hence, we’ve exclud­ed them as rec­om­men­da­tions from our list of fall & win­ter dress shirt fab­rics.

Fall And Winter Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview: poplin weave shirt

Mean­der cot­ton by Sok­tas, in a poplin weave for Deo Ver­i­tas.

Picking the appropriate seasonal dress shirt fabric.

With a lit­tle clar­i­ty on fab­rics now, some of that deci­sion fatigue can be tak­en out of the equa­tion when select­ing your next shirt. It’s best to try each type and see how com­fort­able it feels, how it drapes on your body, and how warm it keeps.

Some come in heav­ier weights than oth­ers, so if you’re prone to feel­ing the chills, go thick­er. Last­ly, the inher­ent qual­i­ty of some of these fab­rics can affect fit, either upon first wear or after a few wash­es.

Accom­mo­date an allowance to account for these nuances, and you’ll enjoy wear­ing the shirt for many years to come.

Custom Dress Shirts