“Put this On” offered a very helpful suggestion, recommending to be the best dressed IT guy, standing out from his co-workers, but not like the best dressed IT manager, since that is his goal.

photo via

It’s no rumor that April showers bring May flowers, so you’ll need a light weight, waterproof jacket, preferably with a hood. There are other good options, such as a leather jacket, bomber, and trench coat, but those aren’t as versatile as a stylish waterproof jacket. Having a hood can also protect you from any gusty winds. Blue Fly has several good choices with great prices, so give them a look. Another good choice is a versatile, slim down vest, which is warm but also light weight, layering over a light jacket, button down or T-shirt depending on those varying Spring temps.

I’m a firm believer that chino’s are a necessity, especially for Spring and Summer. They’re comfortable, light weight and match well with anything. They’ll get a lot of miles, late night or overnight and the longer you have them, the better they look and feel. Avoid baggy, pleated and long. Instead, look for a straight fit with a slight break at the bottom. Make sure they sit at the hips and don’t taper at the ankles. There’s a wide variety to choose from and I highly recommend checking out L.L. Bean. They’re affordable but well constructed. Also, it’s not a bad idea to get a pair of jeans with a lighter shade, such as light blue or khaki, if you need something warmer.

T-shirts, button down dress shirts and polos should always be on hand during Spring and Summer. Avoid loud graphics on your T-shirts and make sure it fits your build. I have several in plain colors made of soft, well worn cotton. Button downs should be light weight, breathable, and in brighter shades with checks or stripes. Find something with a slim fit and shorter cut, so it doesn’t need to be tucked in. Polos should also be fitted and in bright colors.

With more time spent outside, protect yourself with a nice pair of sunglasses. They’ll also make you look sharp while permitting furtive glances at the fairer sex. I’m a big fan of aviators, as they compliment my features the best.  Our friends over at Gear Patrol have a helpful guide on getting the right fit.

Make sure to treat your feet well in a pair of comfy sneakers. Most are affordable so you can have a few different styles. A lighter shade or pure white always looks good for the warmer months, matching well with jeans, chinos and shorts. Personally, I stick to Chuck Taylor‘s but also dig the designs from John Varvatos’s Converse Jack Purcells. Also check out other classics like Van’s and Adidas. It’s really up to you.

As for accessories, the only things you’ll need are an umbrella and scarf. Get a sturdy umbrella made of real wood and a strong fabric. Make sure the sides are also long enough to provide cover from pesky, wind blown rain as well. If you get a cheap umbrella, it’ll rip or bend. Your scarf should be lightweight like merino wool or cashmere with a simple pattern, such as vertical or horizontal stripes with subdued colors like our boy John Paul below.

Most of these items aren’t strictly seasonal for Spring but can carry over into Fall, Summer and Winter. So invest in quality and expect it to last.

*None of the above constitutes an endorsement of any of the websites mentioned or the content therein.

Every dress shirt is a combination of its weave, thread count and fiber. Ultimately, this combination will determine the feel and look of the dress shirt. This is what determines the final product.

Fibers

Cotton dress shirts breathe very well and can also be very soft, feeling the most comfortable of all fibers. It’s a good conductor of heat, feels and looks natural and provides the best overall quality, which can make it expensive. Keep in mind it does wrinkle easily. Blended shirts are common because they are less expensive than cotton, are wrinkle free and provide good warmth, though, less comfortable than cotton. Since they are a combination of cotton and polyester, they are not breathable, so avoid it during the summer. On the other hand, linen is perfect during a hot day, but is notorious for wrinkling. Personally, I avoid linen because I don’t want my shirt looking like I slept in it.

Weaves

Oxford cloth is one of the more popular weaves, due to it’s softness and good durability. It can be worn for formal or casual occasions. It has a “basket weave” appearance, the fabric crossing over in pairs. Pinpoint Oxford is a higher end Oxford, having a lighter weight and finer texture. Royal Oxford is finer still, usually worn for formal occasions.

Broadcloth is a tightly woven fabric with a silky texture, giving it a smooth, formal appearance. It’s one of the most formal dress shirts you can wear, displaying patterns, such as stripes, with great detail. Also, it’s great during the cooler months, providing insulation, during Spring or Fall.

Twill dress shirts use a diagonal pattern, giving it a unique look but also has a strong texture which looks great on shirts with a solid color, making the patterns more visible. It’s generally light weight, lighter than Oxford and Broadcloth, but also very durable, not soiling easily.

Poplin, similar to Broadcloth, is made up of 100% cotton having a soft, comfortable feel, not requiring much ironing. It makes a good summer shirt. It has a very smooth look, though, there is a fine horizontal ribbed effect on the surface. Also, it drapes very well to the body so it’s important to have it sized properly.

Herringbone is a custom dress shirt that is tightly woven with a fine ribbed effect. It’s used with Twill, creating a weave made up of rows in opposite directions, forming a zig zap pattern. It looks great on solid colored shirts, bringing out the unique details of the fabric. Compared to an Oxford shirt, the Herringbone has a smoother feel and classier appearance. Not a common weave, but definitely unique.

The final piece is the thread count, which tells you how many threads were used to make the fabric. Most dress shirts range from 40 – 160.  The higher the thread count, the higher the quality, such as a softer, finer finish. A lower thread count usually produces less quality but it could also mean a heavier fabric, for cooler weather. Another factor to consider with thread count is the ply, which means how many threads were twisted together before making the fabric. Two ply takes two strands, twists them together, and produces a durable, smooth fabric. Single ply uses one strand and therefore, produces less overall quality. So a two ply, 80 thread count dress shirt would be better than a single ply, 120 thread count shirt. Take a look at the fabrics we offer to get a better idea.

Ultimately, the final product crafted by the tailor or designer will determine the quality of your dress shirt,  but knowing the fundamentals of what goes into a dress shirt will help you get what you want, whatever the occasion maybe. This is just the tip of the iceberg regarding fabrics, as there are many different styles, preferences and opinions on what makes a great shirt, but the basics will never change, even when your style does.

]]> http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/mens-dress-shirt-fabrics/feed/ 7 http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/clothes-guys-shouldn%e2%80%99t-wear/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=clothes-guys-shouldn%25e2%2580%2599t-wear http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/clothes-guys-shouldn%e2%80%99t-wear/#comments Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:14:10 +0000 AR http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/?p=435 So hopefully you were able to learn a few things from our last post on what to avoid with men’s fashion. There are many trappings that we’ve all succumbed to at one point or another, with the right intentions but with the wrong outcome. So without further delay…

• Novelty Tee Shirts: We’ve all seen them. Maybe it was a gift with good intentions or at the time, it just seemed so funny you had to have it. Well, it’s not so funny when that hottie thinks you’re a dork but digs your friend in the blazer and button down. These shirts are trendy, tacky and won’t work in most situations, other than buffing polish on your dress shoes or hanging out at home. Personally, I like plain tees or something with understated graphics. Don’t think Ed Hardy.

• Baggy Clothes: Unless you’re going for the baggy look or you’re a hip hop star or you’re 15, try to avoid wearing clothes that are too big for your britches. Sloppy, loose fitting clothes give the impression of laziness, not only with your clothes, but your lifestyle as well. Wear clothes that fit your build comfortably. So avoid overhanging sleeves and pants dragging the floor when you walk. And if you work out, then you should wear something that reflects all that hard work. Not tight pants or shirts like it was painted on, but form fitting, letting it drape. It’s especially important to wear suits that fit properly because it’s usually for an important situation.

• Designer Logo or Labels: Logos from designers in easily visible locations on your clothes is like seeking approval when we were in high school. We don’t need branding because we’re confident right? D&G logos or Gucci on the front of your shirt will make you seem insecure and maybe even a snob. If you’re wearing something of quality, the people that need to know – will. If you really need to have people know you spent $300 on your jeans, then maybe you need to take a hard look at your priorities. Most designers have caught on to this so it’s a relatively easy choice to go for a subtle appearance and not compromise on quality.

• Skinny Jeans: Unless you’re related to Joey Ramone or Robert Plant or in a punk band, please leave these where you found them. This is a current fad that should fade and be forgotten. It’s a battle to squeeze them on, especially if you work out or slightly chub.  Let the ladies squeeze them on instead. Like the image below, this looks best if you’re under 21 or have the right build.

So there you have it. Following these simple tips should lead to a better looking you.  Also, have you seen anything that I may have missed, helping us to avoid the pitfalls of men’s fashion?  If you have any suggestions or feedback, please let us know.

Also, for tips on the finer points of dressing up, follow the guidance from the men’s style forum, Ask Andy.

• Spandex: This is practical for professional athletes or those training for athletic competition, such as road bike racing or track and field. You need to be in great shape to pull it off. Even if you have great quads or giant glutes, having them on full display in the wrong situation, along with your package, is still an eye sore.  It’s best to think “less is more.” Let the ladies give you something nice to look at instead of your buddy. If you really need to squeeze them on, then wear something over them like shorts. Adrian Greiner should have known better. And what’s up with the girl next to him?

• UGG Australia boots:  These boots are a trend for women, meaning it’s overpriced and designed for their looks and comfort. Men need boots that are also comfortable, but rugged, durable, waterproof and mean. They have a men’s line but the brand is strongly associated for women. So don’t fool yourself, even if your girlfriend is. Go instead for Red Wings, Timberlands, Sorel, Clarks or L.L. Bean. Bed/Stu is a newer brand but uses old world fundamentals. Also, never tuck your pants into your boots unless you’re climbing a mountain.

• Shorts: Wearing casual shorts is comfortable during the warmer months, but make sure they’re the proper length, which is past mid thigh and at or above the knee. Michael Jordan had the right idea when he went to longer shorts, possibly starting this thankful trend. Also, it’s imperative to wear shorts at this length during a workout to avoid a free peep show of the family jewels. Again, “less is more.” And don’t wear jean shorts. Mustache is optional.

• Loud Sports Jacket: Loud professional sport jackets emblazoned with your favorite team logo can be a blinding experience. It’s great to know you love the Cubs, but to announce it 5 miles away is a bit too much. For some reason, teams that design these jackets think they need their logo and colors super bold, possibly converting us to their team. Go for something more subtle and understated, with low key prints, colors subdued or only wear it to the game. Sports clothes is less a fashion statement and more an affiliation for your favorite team.

• Socks with Sandals: Logically, this just doesn’t make sense, just like wearing suspenders with a belt. But it still doesn’t stop some of us from giving it a go. Sandals are designed so your feet are exposed, usually due to warm climates, letting them breathe. So wearing socks defeats the purpose. Put on shoes if socks are necessary…well, this should visually explain everything.

So there you have it. That’s Part I and next week we’ll have Part II. So keep a few of these suggestions in mind to avoid side glances and unexpected giggles. If there’s anything you’d like to add, please let us know.

For colors, go for neutral or dark shades, such as grey, brown, olive, navy or black. Personally, I like grey alot because it goes with everything. Fabrics should be light so you can wear other items, layering for warmth but also giving you flexibility. Also, choosing lighter fabrics allow you to wear these items year round.

Now add a few key pieces that will complete your look. These items are the foundation for fall, a long term investment for your wardrobe and not a short term trend.

Blazer/Sports Jacket - A solid blazer will make you look good and keep you warm. They can be worn to a bar or a formal dinner with the lady, the versatility left to your imagination. They come in so many styles and fabrics, it’s really up to you and what you’re looking for. You can go with a heavier tweed to a light cotton or a cozy corduroy or wool. Even velvet or cashmere. All blazers are a revival of a retro look, so keep that in mind. One rule to follow, is make sure the color is warm and dark so they can easily go with jeans, a T shirt or even sneakers.

Pants – Jeans are a staple in any man’s wardrobe so I won’t get into that. Corduroy and twill, though, may have missed your closet. I’m a big fan of both. Again, choose darker, neutral colors so they go with anything. Try to avoid corduroy with the wide “wale” (width of the chord) and go for something narrow or medium, which looks modern. Cotton twill is less common but goes great with anything and very comfortable and warm. Go for a straight leg, flat front pair which come in a variety of colors. Also, they don’t stain easily.

Cardigans - I’m not recommending the typical Mr. Rogers cardigan, but light weight sweaters that are button down, zippered or a pull over. They look sharp and are durable; styled around the office or a night out with the crew. Wearing it over a striped dress shirt adds style and over a T shirt, a casual chic. Beneath a jacket and you’re nice and toasty. A definite must have. Try one made of a light merino wool or even cashmere.

Scarves – A warm scarf can help not only on chilly autumn nights but also on those frozen winter walks. The longer the scarf, the less boldness you want.  Go for solid stripes, neutral colors or simple patterns. Merino wool is durable, affordable and warm but you can always splurge for cashmere. Scarves are a great accessory with anything and will make you look good.

Gloves – Leather gloves made with lambskin lining or something similar are comfortable and warm. They aren’t thick and chunky so your fingers are still useful, behind the wheel or somewhere else. They look stylish, good for every day wear or more dressy occasions. Go for either black or dark brown.

Vests – A down vest jacket is another versatile item that can be worn over a long sleeved shirt, tee or anything else you can think of. It’s also great over a jacket during winter, adding another layer of warmth, making this a great item for fall and winter. It’s also worth mentioning that dress vests, the kind found with a 3 piece suit, can also be used during the fall, making a unique fashion statement.

Henley Shirt – Henley shirts are nice because they look more dressed up than a plain tee, giving a nice casual look paired with a v neck sweater or blazer. They’re a good shirt as a first layer, the long sleeves adding more warmth than a tee. Also, you can never go wrong with a flannel, that American classic.

So there you have it. Adding any of these items won’t break the bank, but will definitely make you look good and keep you warm. You’ll make an impression with the ladies, which never hurts. Also, these aren’t trendy items but something that can be used again and again each season, never going out of style. We hope we’ve given you a jump start on your fall wardrobe. If you think we’ve left anything off that should be included or want to give us your thoughts, please feel free and let us know! And stay warm!