Brand name is a factor, but where and how it’s made is the deal breaker. Quality fabrics with high thread counts, hand sewn vs machine made, shirt construction and design, is just the tip of the iceberg. Up and coming men’s clothing retailer, Fifth and Brannan, provides excellent insight on what separates the player’s from the pretender’s. There really is an important difference in well made dress shirts that validate the high price tags. It will last and fit better than most anything else in our closets.

Understanding the work that goes into a quality dress shirt will help you recognize true craftsmanship. The difference is more than just a collar and cuff, but everything else in between.

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And the men’s dress shirt is no different.

The shirt collar determines the overall style for a dress shirt, dictating its appearance and formality. It also serves as an extension of the face so there needs to be a balance between the collar and the wearer. And finally, the collar determines the type of tie and knot that should be worn.

The button down, straight point and spread collar are the most common types of collars.

A button down collar is found on casual dress shirts, with buttons fastening the corners of the collar to the shirt. Laid back, it doesn’t need to be worn with a tie, working well with sweaters and sports coats.

The forward point, or straight point collar, is the most versatile and common style found on dress shirts. It has the collars pointing downward in a smaller spread for a smaller tie knot, such as the four-in-hand. It works best with a rounder face, helping to make it appear leaner.

The spread collar is also popular, with the points spread apart, away from each other, a style best suited for formal occasions. The space between the collar points should be filled with a larger knot, such as a half Windsor or full Windsor. Those with leaner faces match well with the spread collar, such as below.

Those are the basic collars, but overall, it’s best to go with the point collar for most of your dress shirts. It’s a versatile choice for any suit, blending in for all occasions. Keeping the collar simple allows you the freedom of more options with the rest of your outfits.

Less common collars are the wing, rounded and pin collar. Each are best worn with formal attire.

Wing collars are the most formal of collars, usually worn with a tuxedo and bow tie. It’s a short shirt collar that has two small wings at the front. I wouldn’t include this in your wardrobe unless you frequent formal events.

The club collar or rounded collar is like a point collar except the corners are slightly rounded, a style popular in the 1920’s. It looks best with a four-in-hand and a collar pin.

The pin collar also has a historic tradition, dating back to the 19^th century. There are two holes in each collar point so a pin can be inserted and connected to each corner. The tie knot is above the pin so it slightly elevates it, bringing it to prominence. It’s a very formal style and also best suited with a four-in-hand.

Another consideration is how the collar should be constructed. We talked about the differences between a fused and non fused collar previously, so take a look for more details. Also, we explained how to match your collar with the correct tie knot. As for the fit, make sure you have about 1 to 2 inches of space between your neck and the collar. This allows for enough comfort when buttoned to the top when wearing a tie.

Men’s dress shirt collars come in a variety of styles so understanding the basics is essential. Keep it simple with straight point collars but also know when and how to where something formal.

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A collar is made up of two pieces, the top and bottom. Between these two pieces is a sturdy interlining, which gives the collar its stiffness and strength. These two pieces are either fused or sewn together. Below, you can see the white interlining overlaying the shirt’s fabric for the collar before it’s fused or sewn together.

A fused collar means the interlining is heated and glued together through a fusing machine. A stiff, firm collar is favored with most dress shirts and the fused collar provides the best results, making it a popular choice.  There used to be concerns with fused collars bubbling after some wear and tear, but this isn’t a problem if the shirt maker uses a high end machine like we do. Our video, about 1 minute in, shows our shirt collar fusing process.

A collar that is sewn into the collar, non-fused, is hand stitched by a tailor, a very exact and detailed process. It’s the traditional way of doing things and available with bespoke or custom tailored dress shirts, which we also offer as an option. It will lend itself a less structured appearance and it’s softer in feel, much more comfortable than a fused collar. It’s also very durable and won’t suffer anytime soon from wear and tear. For a stiffer collar, some tailors can use a thicker interlining. Due to the skill required for a sewn collar, it does mark up the cost for a custom dress shirt.

So there’s really no significant advantage of either style. It basically comes down to what you prefer. The fused collar is popular for its firm, crisp collar, which is perfect for the work place or a wedding. It’s also easier for shirt makers to produce because it’s pressed through a machine. A hand tailored sewn collar definitely takes more time to put together and costs more, but has a softer collar that’s very durable. It also has a classic, traditional appeal to it.

Personally, I prefer the stiff, fused collar for my formal dress shirts and a sewn collar for something laid back, like a gingham shirt. Best of both worlds, I guess.

So what’s your preference? Fused or non-fused?

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We want to let our readers know we’re having a sale for a limited time. If you buy 2 or more dress shirts from us, it’s 20% off for the entire purchase. Please enter the following code during the check out process: 2FOR20

Our friends over at Magnificent Bastard love the deal, having interest in one of our newer fabrics, a Thomas Mason Light Copper Gingham fabric. Check it out.

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We also provide some insight on the importance of the white dress shirt.

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We’d suggest a lighter shade fabric, complimented with a nice cigar and a Cucumber Collins, letting him relax while you grill the steaks.

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Photo Resource: Where is the Cool?

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Recently, pocket squares have had a renaissance thanks to our friends over at Sterling Cooper. AMC’s “Mad Men” has resurrected a fashion sense from over 40 years ago. Slim tailored suits in somber tones are complimented with collar pins, cuff links, tie bars and of course, pocket squares.

So how do you wear one? Well, there’s quite a few options but its best to keep it simple, not distracting from your look and avoiding an origami project.  I like the basic flat pocket square fold.  For other folding options, here’s an extensive list.

It’s recommended to match your pocket square with either your dress shirt or suit’s color and patterns. It doesn’t have to be a perfect match but something close. We provide pocket squares using the same material as your dress shirt. If you’re uncertain, play it safe and go with white. It’ll work with most of your suits and still make a visual impact.

Exclusive pocket squares are made from silk, but linen and cotton are just as effective. Something to keep in mind with silk, is it can slip down out of site, giving the impression of storing chestnuts. To avoid this, go for a puff type of fold to maintain support.

Due to its recent popularity, it’s important to use a pocket square with some discretion. There’s no need to wear one with every suit, just if the situation seems appropriate. If you’re in a casual setting and don’t want to wear a tie, use a pocket square to add a touch of formality. So use a pocket square when it seems right but don’t let it distract from your overall look, complimenting it instead.

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Every dress shirt is a combination of its weave, thread count and fiber. Ultimately, this combination will determine the feel and look of the dress shirt. This is what determines the final product.

Fibers

Cotton dress shirts breathe very well and can also be very soft, feeling the most comfortable of all fibers. It’s a good conductor of heat, feels and looks natural and provides the best overall quality, which can make it expensive. Keep in mind it does wrinkle easily. Blended shirts are common because they are less expensive than cotton, are wrinkle free and provide good warmth, though, less comfortable than cotton. Since they are a combination of cotton and polyester, they are not breathable, so avoid it during the summer. On the other hand, linen is perfect during a hot day, but is notorious for wrinkling. Personally, I avoid linen because I don’t want my shirt looking like I slept in it.

Weaves

Oxford cloth is one of the more popular weaves, due to it’s softness and good durability. It can be worn for formal or casual occasions. It has a “basket weave” appearance, the fabric crossing over in pairs. Pinpoint Oxford is a higher end Oxford, having a lighter weight and finer texture. Royal Oxford is finer still, usually worn for formal occasions.

Broadcloth is a tightly woven fabric with a silky texture, giving it a smooth, formal appearance. It’s one of the most formal dress shirts you can wear, displaying patterns, such as stripes, with great detail. Also, it’s great during the cooler months, providing insulation, during Spring or Fall.

Twill dress shirts use a diagonal pattern, giving it a unique look but also has a strong texture which looks great on shirts with a solid color, making the patterns more visible. It’s generally light weight, lighter than Oxford and Broadcloth, but also very durable, not soiling easily.

Poplin, similar to Broadcloth, is made up of 100% cotton having a soft, comfortable feel, not requiring much ironing. It makes a good summer shirt. It has a very smooth look, though, there is a fine horizontal ribbed effect on the surface. Also, it drapes very well to the body so it’s important to have it sized properly.

Herringbone is a custom dress shirt that is tightly woven with a fine ribbed effect. It’s used with Twill, creating a weave made up of rows in opposite directions, forming a zig zag pattern. It looks great on solid colored shirts, bringing out the unique details of the fabric. Compared to an Oxford shirt, the Herringbone has a smoother feel and classier appearance. Not a common weave, but definitely unique.

The final piece is the thread count, which tells you how many threads were used to make the fabric. Most dress shirts range from 40 — 160.  The higher the thread count, the higher the quality, such as a softer, finer finish. A lower thread count usually produces less quality but it could also mean a heavier fabric, for cooler weather. Another factor to consider with thread count is the ply, which means how many threads were twisted together before making the fabric. Two ply takes two strands, twists them together, and produces a durable, smooth fabric. Single ply uses one strand and therefore, produces less overall quality. So a two ply, 80 thread count dress shirt would be better than a single ply, 120 thread count shirt. Take a look at the fabrics we offer to get a better idea.

Ultimately, the final product crafted by the tailor or designer will determine the quality of your dress shirt,  but knowing the fundamentals of what goes into a dress shirt will help you get what you want, whatever the occasion maybe. This is just the tip of the iceberg regarding fabrics, as there are many different styles, preferences and opinions on what makes a great shirt, but the basics will never change, even when your style does.

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