Keeping a thick, brick wallet in your back pocket doesn’t do your spinal alignment any favors when sitting down. This imbalance causes lower back pain. Then again, having it jammed in your front pocket doesn’t compliment your appearance. A flat wallet solves these issues and has less room for overload, so you can travel with the bare necessities. Less baggage is always a good thing. So I started looking.

I was debating between  J. Fold, Bosca and MAKR, each having their own unique style. J. Fold is a bit cheaper, modern and offered the most selections. I really liked this one, which offered room for two cards and cash. Bosca has a traditional, simpler look, also offering several great options, digging this. And MAKR offers hand made wallets that typically run out of supply due to high demand. Clean designs made in high quality leather had me itching for this, but the cost gave me second thoughts.

I finally decided to go with the Bosca and couldn’t be happier. The three card slots offer enough room for 7 cards. A powerful, magnetic money clip is attached to the back, which won’t lose its staying power like tension or spring loaded clips. The leather and stitching should last a long time.

About the same width as my Blackberry, depending how much loot I’m carrying.

With all the great choices out there, finding the perfect flat wallet shouldn’t be a problem. If you can let go of the unnecessary clutter in your current bill holder, then pick yourself a winner. Besides looking modern, it’s also harder to steal. It definitely fits the bill.

Let us know your thoughts on flat card wallets or other good choices out there.

Recently, pocket squares have had a renaissance thanks to our friends over at Sterling Cooper. AMC’s “Mad Men” has resurrected a fashion sense from over 40 years ago. Slim tailored suits in somber tones are complimented with collar pins, cuff links, tie bars and of course, pocket squares.

So how do you wear one? Well, there’s quite a few options but its best to keep it simple, not distracting from your look and avoiding an origami project.  I like the basic flat pocket square fold.  For other folding options, here’s an extensive list.

It’s recommended to match your pocket square with either your dress shirt or suit’s color and patterns. It doesn’t have to be a perfect match but something close. We provide pocket squares using the same material as your dress shirt. If you’re uncertain, play it safe and go with white. It’ll work with most of your suits and still make a visual impact.

Exclusive pocket squares are made from silk, but linen and cotton are just as effective. Something to keep in mind with silk, is it can slip down out of site, giving the impression of storing chestnuts. To avoid this, go for a puff type of fold to maintain support.

Due to its recent popularity, it’s important to use a pocket square with some discretion. There’s no need to wear one with every suit, just if the situation seems appropriate. If you’re in a casual setting and don’t want to wear a tie, use a pocket square to add a touch of formality. So use a pocket square when it seems right but don’t let it distract from your overall look, complimenting it instead.

Unfortunately, none of this matters if it doesn’t fit right. The first step, and probably the most overlooked, is finding a dress shirt that fits you properly. Your actions reflect how you feel, so getting a dress shirt that’s comfortable and fits properly is of the utmost importance. Also, since you’re spending good money, expecting it to last awhile, you definitely want to get the right size.

If you’re browsing at a department store and not sure of your measurements, have one of the store clerks size you up. That’s what they’re there for. They’ll let you know your neck and sleeve measurements. The neck is measured around the neck just below the Adam’s apple but add a 1/2 inch for comfort. Your sleeve length is given from the center back of your neck, over the top of your shoulder and down to your wrist, arm hanging at your side. For the sake of convenience regarding neck size, 14.5″ is a small, 15″ and 15.5″ is a medium and 16″ and 16.5″ considered a large.

Make sure to try on your dress shirt as all designers have different sizing quirks. The neck and the shoulders should be checked first. The seam that connects the shoulder to the sleeve should come close or barely over to the end of your shoulder, allowing it to drape well. The shirt shouldn’t stretch across the chest. Also, the sleeves should end slightly past the break of the wrist so it can be seen beneath a suit coat.

I’d recommend finding a slim fitted shirt because it’s much easier to tuck in and stay tucked, along with giving a slimmer appearance. You don’t want it to billow like a ship’s sail out to sea. This gives a sloppy appearance, losing any dignity the dress shirt can easily provide. One thing to keep in mind, is if the collar and shoulder is fine but the sleeves long, you can get it tailored, along with tapering in the shirt if it puffs out too much.

We talked about dress shirt fabrics already, so I won’t get into that. To spare you the headache, however, of department store browsing and spending extra on tailoring, I’d recommend you try out our online custom dress shirt process. You can use the general measurements suggested above or input exact measurements from a well fitted dress shirt you already own. Your best bet is to start from scratch with a measuring tape. Here’s how you can measure yourself.

Regardless, if you choose online or at the store, make sure you get the fit that makes you look your best. If you don’t wear a dress shirt to work, it will still come in handy on the weekend or any surprise appearances requiring an impression. Make that impression the right one with the right fit.

A look that would do fine today: boots, trousers, sports coat, argyle V neck sweater with collars just doing their thing. Casual cool.

I’d be relaxed too if I had Jack Purcell’s on my feet.

Chino’s, V neck, pocket watch: classic but rumpled, making the look his own. You should too.

Aviator sunglasses will never lose their appeal. And everyman should wear a watch.

The look that started it all: a classic white T

The coat’s lapels give away his pea coat. Trousers aren’t tight but give enough room to take some chances.

Doing what he did best. Looking cool.

The artist at work in a striped Oxford.

It all starts with being comfortable in your own skin.

And the “Little Bastard” that did him in.

There are plenty of good discussions on how James Dean portrayed that ultimate cool and originality, but the important thing to keep in mind, is he took risks, taking on what life has to offer.  So live life the way you want to and take some chances. Do what you’re afraid to do because life is short. As it was for him.

1. Dark Grey Suit – Every man needs at least one suit, so make it gray, though, navy is a good second choice. Gray works in the office, an interview or an emergency when you need to look your best. Ask Cary Grant. If you can afford one suit, make sure it’s quality and conservative. Two or three button, single breasted suits look good on nearly every body type. Avoid pleats and go for flat front pants. Before making your purchase, know your measurements. Make sure everything fits comfortably because you will own it for a long time. Here’s more information on getting the right suit.

2. White Dress Shirt - We’ve already talked about the importance of a white dress shirt. Like a good sports coat or blazer, it matches well with anything but also gives you a dressed up appearance, even if you forgot to shave or comb your hair. Don’t skim on the quality because this shirt will get a lot of miles and needs to last. Make sure the fabric is strong, such as 100% cotton Oxford with a two ply, 80 thread count finish, such as this. Avoid buttoned collars because this will limit its versatility, looking too casual.

3. Navy Blue Sport Coat or Blazer – Nothing is more versatile and good looking than a well cut, well made sports coat or blazer. It can be worn in a variety of situations, such as work, hanging out with your friends at a bar or a formal get together. It’s great for the fall and spring and slim enough to fit under a top coat during winter.  Navy blue works well with anything, easily going with jeans, a polo or button down. There are many styles to choose from, but avoid a blazer with gold or brass buttons. Look for something made of medium weight, worsted wool so you can wear it all year.  As for the cut, keep it simple: no double breasted or four button styles. Select a classic two button with a single vent in back and medium width lapels. Finally, here’s some helpful information on the different styles of jackets.

4. Dark Jeans – Ten years ago, this wouldn’t have made anyone’s list but times have changed. Dark jeans are now a staple for a man’s wardrobe. They can be worn at a nice restaurant, most work places that don’t day trade and that night club she just has to be at. Go for something with comfort, quality and no rips. Avoid baggy and skinny, but just right. Stay away from designer labels that visibly proclaim their status on your bum. It might be cool now, but it won’t be in a few years. Here’s how to avoid fading your dark jeans too quickly, retaining their precious indigo.

5. Black Dress Shoes – A good pair will match most suits (except brown) and you can’t go wrong with a lace up look. They’ll be used a lot, such as work or any occasion that calls for some formality. Therefore, take the plunge for quality with fine leather and stitching from a reputable brand. Keep in mind, women will also take an interest with what’s on your feet. Avoid square toe and look for something rounded. If you’re on your feet most of the day, I’d recommend purchasing Ecco’s with their generous shoe sole design. To maintain your pricey pair, make sure to get a quality set of cedar shoes and shoe polish.

6. Khaki/Chino pants – These do well in the summer, running errands any day of the week or beating that deadline at work. You can even sleep in them. There are always debates as to the differences and origins of these type of pants, but that’s for another day. Point is, you need to own at least one or the other. Typically, khaki’s are the more casual style of the two, fuller in the seat and thighs. Chino’s are usually a lighter shade and with a straight through fit. So it depends on what you’re looking for. Both should be 100% cotton twill and a flat front. If they’re long, you can roll them up or get them hemmed.

7. Sneakers – It’s nice to relax in a classic pair of sneakers after work, hanging out with friends at a bar or walking around town with the lady. It’s important to get a subtle color that can match well with jeans, chinos or any type of casual pants. They’re not expensive so you can get a pair of white for the summer and something darker for spring and fall. Avoid anything with loud colors or flashy labels as these will become useless after the fad fades. Personally, I stick with Converse Chuck Taylor’s or their higher end John Varvatos Jack Purcell’s.

8. V-Neck Sweater – The V neck’s shape gives space for your collar, letting it open up naturally. This looks great over any dress shirt but also works well with a polo or T shirt. Choose a sweater with ribbed cuffs, collar and bottom, fitting your build, so it’s not loose or floppy in appearance. The V needs to be large enough to fit over a collared shirt but also small enough to fit over a T shirt. If you plan to have one or two, select darker colors so it matches with everything, such as gray, navy blue or chocolate brown.

9. Watch – This is the only accessory that made our list because it’s the most important. These days, guys use their cell phones to tell time, but when you have a classic rock on your wrist, nothing better reflects your personality along with a personal statement on your style. It’s a worthy investment, something that should last, but tread carefully because there are many options. The watch should be quality, masculine, but most importantly, something you feel comfortable wearing. Metal and leather bands are classic, but grosgrain is great for a casual look. Keep your sports watch in the gym.

10. Polo Shirt – Another item that works well in many situations. Polo’s are a great summer shirt but also suitable for work, happy hour and wherever else your night may lead you. They come in a variety of colors but for a basic collection, start with navy blue, gray and dark green. Again, this is going to last a long time, so look for quality and comfort. Ralph Lauren is somewhat cliche, so look around for something unique. I’d recommend a slimmer fit polo with a soft finish, but ultimately, there are so many options it’s up to you. As tempting as it maybe, don’t pop your collar or button the top button.

Most of these items can be found at J. Crew and Banana Republic. They typically design classic men’s clothes with quality. J Crew offers a nice, final sales selection. Also check out Bluefly.

Having these few reliable items in your closet will make you look your best for a long time. After building your foundation, make sure to compliment everything with your own personal touch and style, reflecting who you are.  Enhance your appearance so you don’t blend in, falling in line like everyone else. There’s nothing wrong with being original, since you now have a good foundation to stand on. *None of the above constitutes an endorsement of any of the websites mentioned or the content therein.

But let’s dig a little deeper, beneath the gloss. Mad Men is a step back into another era, a different time. We know what we can expect. Their way of living was simpler and slower than the hustle and bustle of today’s technology and lifestyle demands. Perhaps this is what pulls us into the show, being able to unplug online and sink into our sofa’s, watching their world unfold. They have safe jobs during the birth of corporate America.They work but can have a smoke and a drink during a stressful workday. They live during a time when the economy was honest and a man came home to dinner.

It’d be delusional, though, to want to be in that world. While it’s nice for an escape, the social barriers regarding civil rights had yet to be broken down. Women had few options for a career or lifestyle. Besides, using a typewriter could be cumbersome.

What’s interesting is the show’s premise. It’s at the dawn of advertising with the rise of television. Marketing is about clever slogans, jingles and commercials. Now, that method is dying as we Tivo and block out direct marketing noise. Instead, we connect online through social media, talking directly with those creating the content we’re interested in. So while we watch Don Draper swagger through the birth of his advertising age, we are now experiencing the decline of his time.

What we can embrace are the show’s old world fundamentals, great style and substance. We could use more of this today, with everyone capable of participating online with these new tools now at our fingertips. So while we enjoy the show, we can also bask in the new technology that has allowed us to savor the moment.

He wants to share his journey, giving an inside view on what it takes to craft a hand made shirt by our seasoned experts. Along with some of the spoils Hong Kong has to offer.

Welcome to Hong Kong and its second tallest building, the towering International Finance Center. Nope, our shop isn’t located here – not yet at least!

Meet CEO and founder of Deo Veritas, Vinnie Sikka, observing the many fabrics we offer.

Here’s a view of the shop floor. One thing that separates us from the rest is that our facility is not a “sweat shop” or a factory. Our shop is located within a brand new office building in central Hong Kong. Our equipment is modern and our people all have 10+ years of experience.

Another view, our tailor laying out fabric for a new shirt.

This is an image of the fabric pieces in Autocad. After they are printed, they are cut and then fitted over the fabric, sized as needed, and stitched together to make the final product.

Aligning the Autocad shirt patterns with the fabric.

Here the finished collar is being pressed through the fusing machine. The high quality fusing process ensures a long life for all our collars and cuffs.

Here’s a nearly finished shirt collar. You can see the slot for the collar stays.

Putting it together…

And your final product!

Vinnie putting the final touches on an order.

After all that hard work, the team got together for dinner.

Vinnie loved the shrimp on a stick – even the brain! “Tasted like chicken.”

What a feast!

For more specific details on the entire dress shirt design process, please visit this link on our Facebook page.

Well, we hope you enjoyed that tour from all of us at Deo Veritas! An insider’s view of what goes into making our dress shirts, personally crafted from our artisan tailors. We definitely try to give you the best!

They’re also an investment. After taking the time to find the right shirt (color, collar, fit, fabric, etc), we need to make sure it lasts longer than our last girlfriend. There’s no reason to dent your wallet on a new dress shirt because it wasn’t taken care of. Here’s what you need to do.

Everyday Care – It’s important to check your dress shirts now and then to make sure there are no loose buttons, unnoticed stains, rips or wrinkles. This is to catch problems before it’s too late and correct anything before you actually need to wear it. This also helps prior to ironing. Also, keep your dress shirts spaced a few inches apart on their hangers, letting them breathe and drape naturally, preventing poor form. So take the few minutes to give a look over and see where anything may need some repair.

Washing – This is the most important step to prolonging the life of your dress shirt. There are two choices with washing which is to do it yourself or have it taken to a cleaning service. If you use a washing machine, consult the tag first but it’s recommended to use a gentle cycle with lukewarm water. If by hand, then make sure to separate the colors first and use caution if you want to use bleach. White shirts should be fine but read the labeling first for any side affects. A cleaning service is the most popular form of cleaning, but also the most dangerous. They sometimes use chemicals that can discolor your dress shirt or damage it. Never have the shirt starched, which will eventually weaken the fabric’s fibers, making it flimsy. To get that crisp look, purchase a dress shirt made of quality with a high thread count, such as these. Also, do not get your shirt dry cleaned but laundered instead. Dry cleaning requires chemicals which will warp the fabric. Personally, I try to avoid dry cleaners because you never know what accidental damage might occur but also, you save some cash cleaning them yourself. Just don’t go above and beyond like granny does.

Ironing – Before flattening out the wrinkles, make sure there aren’t any stains on your dress shirt. Stains that are ironed are impossible to remove, becoming permanently pressed into the fabric. Also, make sure there are no loose buttons or threading. It’s best to iron when your shirt is slightly damp. Using a good steam iron, you’ll easily and quickly remove wrinkles while also drying out your shirt. Here’s a guide on how to iron your dress shirt.

Stains – This is bound to happen sooner or later, so it’s best to be prepared. Act immediately when it happens. If it’s mud or a grass stain, use a stain remover. Liquid detergents work well with oil or grease stains, hand washing with cold water. White shirts are easy targets so try to wear an undershirt so pit stains won’t appear from your deodorants. Also, apply cologne first, let it dry and then put on your dress shirt, avoiding any discolorations from the chemicals.

So following these guidelines will help you prolong the life of your dress shirt, maintaining their color, fabric and fit. The button down is a staple in any man’s wardrobe and deserves the attention to make it last and look good. And that extra money you saved from buying new shirts can be spent on something else, like a porterhouse steak or cases of my favorite beer.

This year it’s going to be different. Instead of overwhelming yourself with a list and the inevitable let down, we’re going to provide you some tips on how to make things happen. We know it’s the dead of winter but so what. Let’s get it done and do it with purpose.

1. Set Goals - To get started off the runway, it’s best to lay out some goals. Have one or two major goals before tacking on more, so you don’t drown from the very beginning. Goals will give you an idea where you’re headed, giving yourself something to look forward to and reach a conclusion. If these goals seem insurmountable, break down each goal into mini goals, focusing on the smaller steps and not the big picture, simplifying your approach.

2. Prepare for Setbacks - At the beginning of your journey, you’ll naturally be excited, enthused and motivated. Eventually, this will fade due to repetition and hard work. If you prepare yourself mentally for this let down, you will then be able to persist through it. You know it’s going to happen, so when it does, you won’t lay down but fight through it, making yourself stronger, building your confidence.

3. Lay the Foundation First - When you first approach your plan and establish your goals, the next step is to use your new found enthusiasm. Funnel it into the hard work that has to be done, such as planning, organizing, details, etc. Doing the dirty work now while your motivated will make it easier to do everything else that follows, especially when you run into obstacles. So lay down the foundation first while you’re highly motivated at the beginning.

4. Track Your Progress – It’s important to see how far you’ve come after a few weeks or months. You maybe surprised how much you’ve gotten done with your steady effort and can re-assess where you can use improvement or maintain your pace. Checking on progress will help your motivation, making yourself work harder or ease off the pedal, depending on your situation. Also, it’ll help you maintain your focus and avoid losing interest.

5. Reward Yourself – It may seem like a never ending battle when marching towards your goal. It takes time, persistence and discipline. As you steadily build towards your goal, it’s important to step back and reward yourself. It’s a way of thanking yourself for making a continuous effort, regardless if your results were successful, but for making an honest effort. Reward yourself and then step back into it.

6. Publicly State Your Goals - Announcing your goals to your friends and family will help motivate you to stay on course. No one wants to fail publicly, a weakness of our ego, so use it to your advantage. State your goals but also share your progress and results. The social pressure may not be for everyone, but it’ll be a great motivator to show everyone what your made of. Also, they’ll help you along, keeping you on track.

7. Take a Break – It’s natural after some point to get frustrated with your progress or the repetition of the work. Whatever the reason, take a break from your goal and focus on something else for a little bit or do something fun, giving yourself time to mentally recharge yourself. Clear your perspective so you can start up again with a renewed sense of purpose.

8. Friends for Motivation - It never hurts to reach out to friends for some motivation and give you a push towards your goal. This doesn’t have to be an isolated experience but something you can share. You’ll be surprised at the mental boost friends can provide by giving you a fresh perspective. Maybe a few of them have gone through something similar and can provide you some guidance.

9. Journal or Blog - Writing down your efforts during the good days and bad will help you keep your focus and motivation. It’s especially important to note your successes and failures, helping you vent as well. When you’re feeling down, you can look back on your positive experiences for motivation. If you’re stuck on something, you can look back and see what you did to overcome it.

10. Habits vs Lifestyle - The purpose of self improvement goals is to change bad habits. Eventually, you want to have improved habits, but also incorporate these new habits into your lifestyle. It should feel natural for you, to want to go to the gym for a workout, to write for an hour on your blog or study for that exam. These new habits should now be part of your everyday lifestyle, no longer a work in progress, but a part of your personality.

With the New Year upon us and many ready to make that big change, we thought it would be helpful to provide some guidance on how to stay on track. We usually focus on men’s lifestyle trends and style but this time, it felt right to give you something more. So after this New Year passes, don’t drop the ball, but hit the ground running.

]]> http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/snooze-you-lose-10-ways-to-stay-motivated/feed/ 0 http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/happy-holidays-from-deo-veritas/ http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/happy-holidays-from-deo-veritas/#comments Thu, 24 Dec 2009 22:32:57 +0000 Amar http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/?p=634 Deo Veritas wants to wish our readers a Merry Christmas. We hope you’re enjoying the holidays with family, loved ones and friends. Thank you for your support and we hope to continue to provide you with helpful content on men’s fashion and lifestyle.

And remember, lay off the Eggnog. Have an Old Fashioned instead, slip on a crisp dress shirt and then position yourself beneath the Mistletoe. Good things will happen, promise.