We couldn’t resist from posting Dior’s latest film Secret Garden, filmed in Versailles by titans Vinoodh and Inez. Depeche Mode rocks the film with their haunting soundtrack Enjoy the Silence.

Dandy models (Daria Strokous, Melissa Stasiuk, and Xiao Wen Ju) galvanize the garden–the royal chateau is source of inspiration …

Click here to view the embedded video.

You should watch it again in full screen mode. Check out those daunting looks at seconds .23 thru .26.

Xiao Wen Ju

Melissa Stasiuk

Daria Strokous

–Jay

Return to our homepage to learn about custom dress shirts

1775–1783: George Washington uses cryptic, ghostly tactics while serving as commander-in-chief of the Continental army to avenge the British. (GENTLEMANLY or UNGENTLEMANLY–you decide on this one)

1880: The first safety razor, known as the Star, is patented in the U.S. (GENTLEMANLY)

Photo: Everett Collection

1954: Edward R. Murrow and his CBS news team produce A Report on Senator Joseph R. McCarthy, which uses excerpts from McCarthy’s own speeches to reveal him as a liar and a bully. (GENTLEMANLY)

Photo: Getty Images

1967: Dustin Hoffman portrays a young spank right out of college, starring in The Graduate, to teach the world’s youngsters of the uncertain burdens of life upon graduation–growing up, recognizing adulthood (GENTLEMANLY). Having an affair (UNGENTLEMANLY).

1968: Steve McQueen teaches men how to burn rubber in a Mustang GT starring in Bullitt. (GENTLEMANLY)

1972: Don Corleone the wise guy says, “I have a sentimental weakness for my children and I spoil them, as you can see. They talk when they should listen.” Then turns to his son Sonny and says, “What’s the matter with you? I think your brain is going soft with all that comedy you are playing with that young girl. Never tell anyone outside the Family what you are thinking again. Go on.” Ha! (GENTLEMANLY) 

1986: Ralph Lauren opens his own retail palace on Madison Avenue in the former Rhinelander mansion. Ralph spent roughly $33 million to deck it out. Inside you find more mahogany than Tiger has wood, vintage paintings of horsemen and it’s there you find lifestyle merchandising boutiques for all his labels–RRL, Purple Label, Black Label, Polo and the RLX collections. (GENTLEMANLY)

1988: Bruce Willis teaches urbanites to use terms in the proper context (GENTLEMANLY) although I don’t encourage profanity.

Main terrorist Hans: Mr. Mystery Guest are you still there?

John Mcclane: Yeah I’m still here

Hans: Who are you exactly? Someone who watched too many action movies as a child and thinks he’s John Wayne, Rambo, Lewis Stevens?

Mcclane: Actually I was kind of partial to Roy Rogers myself. Always liked those sequin shirts.

Me: Ha!

Hans: Do you really think you can stop us Mr.Cowboy?

Mcclane: Well, Yippie-Ki-Yay Mo****Fu****!

Click here to view the embedded video.

1991: Michael Jordan sets the tuck-thy-ear inside thy fitted cap trend (GENTLEMANLY)… as gentlemanly as baseball caps can be whatever it be.

Nearly a decade later, during his Hall of Fame induction speech, Jordan sheds light on his past grievances and slights to settle the scores. (UNGENTLEMANLY). Never underestimate one’s potential is what great Mike was alluring to–sort of like not underestimating Kwame Brown. That’s funny, sorry. I love Mike.

1992: A Few Good Men is released. Its moral: “You don’t need a patch on your arm to have honor.” (GENTLEMANLY)

1993: Calvin Klein and “Marky Mark” Wahlberg promote exposed underwear. (UNGENTLEMANLY)

Photo: Everett Collection

Photo: AP Photo

1995: Computer giant IBM promotes casual dress for employees… every day of the week! (UNGENTLEMANLY). Levi’s Strauss & Co. caught on to this trend of the early 90’s, the “personification of the internetset look” as Teri Agins calls it in her book The End of Fashion, a trend made popular by Bill Gates whilst sporting chinos and sport shirts in the 80’s.

Photo: Steve Marcus

Photo: AP Photo

Photo: AP Photo

2006: The Most Interesting Man in the World US ad campaign for Dos Equis featuring Jonathan Goldsmith reignites the beard and stubble craze which many may accredit to Don “Sonny Crocket” Johnson. Ben Bernanke continues the tradition in political circles. What a bunch of wise guys. Beards rule. (UNGENTLEMANLY).

Click here to view the embedded video.

Some of the above is courtesy of Details.com. Return to our homepage to learn about custom dress shirts.

–Jay

Click here to view the embedded video.

Play the clip before proceeding then scroll down to read.

Buy yourself some Wallabees this spring and shadow the great Heisenberg.

Buy a snug fitting to prevent slippage–it allows the inner sole to conform to the wearer.

“If you have them on and it starts raining, you should immediately take them off and find shelter. Wait for the rain to stop, and then to dry completely, and then walk home–CAREFULLY” says pebblegrain on styleforum.net. I couldn’t say it any better. My first pair suffered the wrath of rain.

I endorse Clarks Wallabees.

What makes them unique?

Look to the 1960’s and you find the metamorphosis of classic Clark Desert Boots to what might be the world’s first comfort shoe, dubbed the Clark Wallabee. In 1965, Lance Clark introduced a simple, yet revolutionary leather moccasin built on the traditional Clarks’ naturally formed, crepe sole that allows the wearer’s toes to spread and feet to flex naturally. The inside is an EVA foot bed with a leather sock liner that, whether worn bare foot or in sock feet, will keep feet comfortable and dry¹. The inside sole quickly takes the shape of its wearer, memorizing it and becoming a personalized pair of moccasin-like shoes. Like its predecessor, Clarks Wallabees became a classic. A later modernization came with the introduction of Clarks Desert Treks in 1974, when the oil crisis had many people walking. Read the entire article.

–Jay

Return to our homepage to learn about custom dress shirts

I’d be right to say if there weren’t those, very few men that could pull it off and to whom the following facts may not apply but on the whole, men shouldn’t bother with them.

Fact No. 1, denim on denim for men is almost always a blunder mistake.

Fact No. 2, a classy man knows how to layer his denim. Remember that indian fella, Anil Kapoor, in MI4 Ghost Protocol, where he tries all too hard to seduce Jane. I wish I could find the english version of this clip!

Click here to view the embedded video.

I think these men tried too hard …

Fashion editors here are wearing denim under blazers, over sweaters and with their Barbour coats. These gentleman can’t be serious. I mean, what are you going to do when you feel warm? Remove the blazer, then remove the denim jacket, then put the blazer back on and then carry the denim jacket over your forearm, hugging your chest like a granny would when strolling thru the mall? I suggest one should never supplement a winter coat with layers of spring attire not to mention the look.

Fact No. 3, denim shirts make men look hideous. “Note how the coolness that I’m pretty sure this guy possesses is obliterated by his shirt” (Paul Michael Murphy @ Murphblog) …

Fact No. 4, if you really can’t resist then do it right… straight-rock-the-denim jacket with a tee, v-neck preferably, or perhaps a polo if you’re one of those classic fellas and if you’re a really special cowboy, then just maybe, maybe a button up shirt. And don’t disguise it with any extras. Here’s inspiration for the soul …

Fact 5, for women, sport­ing said denim is pre­ferred. Why? Given feminine style and fit, less fab­ric is used upon construction leaving less room for dull denim to be seen. It’s a reflec­tion of the old adage, less is more. Their jack­ets don’t look boxy and the elements (but­tons, seams, collars, zippers, pock­ets yada yada) show purpose.

Soooo, if you’re looking to buy your mistress one, check out these …

Current/Elliott
Levi’s Rigid Denim
Paige Denim
Lucky Brand
MiH Collection

For all men, just remember the odds are against you.

With that being established, I’d like this denim blazer in dark brown …

Denim sportcoat on streets of Paris complimented by a bow tie, whew …

(Courtesy of The Sartorialist)

Do it well on the streets of Milano …

From the Garbstore …

Courtesy of Selectism

Long denim jackets and blazers have an exotic appeal. Khakis and v-neck tees compliment them best.

To learn about custom dress shirts return to our homepage.

–Jay

At :47 seconds Ben demands a young schlep rock to “Get the **** out!”  You think Ben’s decision had partly to do with the fact that young schlep rock was the worst-dressed candidate in the room?  I think so.  Shlep rock should’ve kept his merciless ego tamed. My Mother once taught me, “A sweet tongue can buy you the world”… unlike that schlep rock, what a yo-yo.

Find Mr. Affleck here in one of his best shots.  His words stir the heavens and the devil’s wit simultaneously.

Boiler Room Group Interview–a must see.

If you don’t want to dress like a yo-yo return to our home­page to learn about cus­tom dress shirts.

–Jay

In this clip barber Israel Leon teaches us folk how to use a straight-man-razor …

Click here to view the embedded video.

Once groomed and ready to sport that button-up, visit our home­page to learn about cus­tom dress shirts.

–Jay

Grant Harris, owner and chief style consultant of Image Granted, a Washington, D.C.-based company, says “People notice what you should be wearing—not the nice things you are wearing.  If you’re wearing a nice shirt and a crummy tie, they’re going to notice the tie, not the shirt.”  Courtesy of ManofTheHouse.Com & Gin Ando.

Here’s my guide:

a) In warm temps mid-calf socks may work well but they don’t work for me as they descend, crumple and reveal a hairy leg.  Go for an over-the-calf, below-the-knee fitting.  This way you’ll never feel shy to cross your legs like a dame while seated.

b) A sock should have a flat, no-feel seam over the toes and quality ribbing on the band that hugs below-the-knee with tight comfort.

c) When putting on the sock be very gentle so you don’t stretch parts that shouldn’t be stretched.  Careful how you maneuver around the heel.  You don’t want the stretch of fabric that extends from the ankle to the calf to inadvertently lose it’s flush fitting.  When that happens you know it’s time to replenish your arsenal.  In general, replenish socks often.

d) As for “standby black, blue & grey hues, consider those for professional and boardroom-style events only” says Harris.  Matching hosiery to trousers has long been considered the norm but Harris keenly notes, “Men don’t really have a lot of room to express themselves but this is an area where a man can express himself. I’m not saying be outlandish or get crazy, though.”  If you want to don socks that attract palsied, head-turner, gratifying looks visit Alfredo Gonzales.

e) Socks made of a predominantly nylon composite will deprive your feet of ventilation and although they seem thinner & lighter your feet will feel dank & musty.  Harris observes, “Wool is the best material on the whole.  It breathes better, it’s cooler and it wicks more moisture.”  Dependent on the type, weave and thickness of the fibers (cashmere, merino, etc.), wool is naturally engineered for year round climate & comfort, insulating from heat and cold.

Over a lifetime feet log somewhere in the vicinity of 70,000 miles and sweat 10–15 gallons yearly of which 5–8 gallons are absorbed by socks.  Cotton socks are considered a poor choice because their absorbency causes fibers to collapse against the skin as opposed to wool which wicks moisture away from the skin and simultaneously traps dead airspace against the skin; cottons trapped perspiration in cold climates can lead to hypothermia.  Ever wear two layers of cotton socks in the winter as a child and get soggy feet in the classroom that make your entire body shiver?  “Heat loss through wet clothing can be 240 times that lost while wearing dry clothing.”  (Facts courtesy of Foxsox.com)

f) Be mindful on how you wash wool blends etc.  Instructions should come with your purchase and if not, inquire.  Wools can be worn more than once so long as you let them air out.

g) Socks should fit flush against your feet.  The heel section should fit the heel and no parts should leave room for wiggle.

Don’t think folks don’t notice your hosiery.  “After a man’s wardrobe is nearing an acceptable level, it’s time to focus on refining details” quips Harris and, “to peer into a man’s soul look at his socks”.  Next time you walk into your bosses office and he asks you to remove your shoes you’ll know why.

Image Granted generated a list of sock manufacturers (categorized by price) that may assist with your journey in finding socks that suit you…

Return to our home­page to learn about cus­tom dress shirts.

–Jay

Content is courtesy of Readers Digest Magazine & Yahoo; added are my comments in green.

I must preface, my father taught me to tip well.  On the same token, I was taught in that a tip is earned and not mandatory.

While most of us agree that 20 percent (or close to it) is the standard amount to leave on a restaurant check, other tipping-related matters leave us scratching our heads. To settle these debates once and for all, Steve Dublanica, former server and author of the blog Waiter Rant and recent book Keep the Change: A Clueless Tipper’s Quest to Become the Guru of the Gratuity, weighs in on some hot-button issues.

1. SHOULD YOU TIP ON THE TAX?

On one hand: There’s no reason to tip on the tax. The restaurant doesn’t get to keep tax money. When gratuity is automatically included on a check for a large party, it’s added pretax.  

On the other: When most servers total their sales at the end of the night, they include the tax in the amount. This “cash-out” amount determines how much they tip out to busboys, runners, and other staff members. By not tipping on tax, you’re stiffing them out of their fair share.

Steve’s verdict: “I like it when you do, but you don’t have to tip on the tax.”

I’m not a avid fan of tipping on tax; don’t tip on tax!  I’ll keep this article in mind when consuming noshes after noshes at Greek Islands in Chicagoland given their lineup of busboys, runners etc… that’s a joke.  As for automatic gratuity aka autograt, in some countries and for large parties of six or more an autograt is common; reputable eateries in the US will post their autograt policy on the menu or will inform patrons in some manner.

I find it subversively ridiculous when waiters add an autograt to the bill of a party of four to five or less and do so by choice i.e. to one party yet not to another.  Although, some may argue waiters are protecting themselves given their known surefire stereotypes i.e. Europeans with accents don’t tip well (as pertaining to the USA), foreigners don’t tip well, etc.  

2. WHAT IS THE CORRECT AMOUNT TO TIP ON DRINKS?

On one hand: Twenty percent is way too much — it’s just a drink! The standard in most bars is $1 for each beverage or 10 percent, which generally adds up to $1. Bartenders are tipped out by other members of the staff, so they are walking away with plenty of money.

On the other: Bartenders do more work than servers because they’re the ones actually making the drinks, not the server. They deserve the full 20 percent.

Steve’s verdict: “[At the bar] you should leave 15 to 20 percent of the total cost of that drink, which may seem kind of ridiculous. But think of it this way: At the table, you’re paying 15 to 20 percent. Why does the bartender not get that money, but the waiter — who doesn’t make those drinks — does?”

I’m guilty of tipping my bar tender plenty on the first drink; it’s likely because I seek that extra kick in coming drinks.  When paying in cash one usually either tips plenty at the outset or one tips at the very end.  When waiting to tip at the end it’s best to give notice.  I find that a more than adequate tip on the first drink works best going forward.  There are also those who tip per drink and rightfully so depending on how long one plans to stay.    

3. DO YOU ALWAYS TIP YOUR BARISTA?

On one hand: Yes. They’re skilled workers and deserve tips just as much as other food-service employees.

On the other: Baristas make a decent hourly wage, unlike servers, and they don’t work for tips. Besides, what’s the point of tipping them if they don’t see you put the money in the jar?

Steve’s verdict: “I learned when I worked as a barista that if you get a cup of coffee and give us the change from buying that cup, we’re really grateful. But I’ve seen people order one of these frothy iced milk latte-type chemistry experiments — which can be more complicated to prepare than a martini — and then not tip. For baristas who make you one of these, tip a dollar.”

See also: 13 Things Your Barista Won’t Tell You… the interesting ones are:

1) Starbucks’ Venti (20 oz) and Grande (16 oz) each contain two shots of espresso. The Venti just has more milk. So if it’s caffeine you’re after, size doesn’t matter.

2) 
If a heart or a pinwheel design holds in the milk it means that the consistency of the foam is good and the shot was pulled well.  If you’re at a place that does foam artwork, and you don’t get a good picture, that means your drink is not well made.

3) Starbucks sends employees to barista school for two weeks, where they study the history of coffee, the entire coffee menu, and how to turn milk into velvety foam.

4. WHEN, IF EVER, IS IT ACCEPTABLE TO LEAVE A BAD TIP?

On one hand: Never. Even if your server really, really screws up, the tip money is being distributed to multiple employees of the restaurant. If you’re unhappy with your server, it’s not fair to penalize the busboy, bartender, food runners, and other employees who depend on this money to make their living.

On the other: It’s OK to leave a bad tip if you receive bad service. It’s your right as a customer, and it will send a message of displeasure to the restaurant.

Steve’s verdict: “I don’t suggest stiffing servers on the tip, because you are punishing all the other people connected to that food chain. I tell people to talk to the manager and say, ‘I had very poor service, but I’m leaving a tip anyway.’”

See also: 20 Secrets Your Waiter Won’t Tell You… the interesting secrets are: 

1) Now that I’ve worked in a restaurant, I never ask for lemon in a drink. Everybody touches them. Nobody washes them. We just peel the stickers off, cut them up, and throw them in your iced tea.
–Charity Ohlund, Kansas City waitress

2) Don’t order fish on Sunday or Monday. The fish deliveries are usually twice a week, so Tuesday through Friday are great days. Or ask the restaurant when they get theirs.
–Steve Dublanica

3) I’ve never seen anybody do anything to your food, but I have seen servers mess with your credit card. If a server doesn’t like you, he might try to embarrass you in front of your business associate or date by bringing your credit card back and saying, ‘Do you have another card? This one didn’t go through.‘
–Charity Ohlund

4)  Some places buy salad dressings in one-gallon jars, then add a few ingredients, like a blue cheese crumble or fresh herbs, and call it homemade on the menu.
–Former waiter Jake Blanton, who spent ten years in restaurants in Virginia, North Carolina, and California

5) It’s much easier to be recognized as a regular on Mondays, Tuesdays, or Wednesdays. Once you’re recognized as a regular, good things start to happen. You’ll find your wineglass gets filled without being put on your bill, or the chef might bring you a sample.
–Christopher Fehlinger

6) At a lot of restaurants, the special is whatever they need to sell before it goes bad. Especially watch out for the soup of the day. If it contains fish or if it’s some kind of ‘gumbo,’ it’s probably the stuff they’re trying to get rid of. 
–Kathy Kniss, who waited tables for ten years in Los Angeles

5. SHOULD A SERVER BE ABLE TO AUTOMATICALLY INCLUDE GRATUITY IF IT’S NOT A LARGE GROUP?

On one hand: Yes, in certain cases. Many tourists from other countries don’t understand the tipping protocol in the United States. Servers have a right to protect themselves.

On the other: It’s outrageous for a server to include the tip unless it’s a large group. Legally, servers don’t have the right to make the customer pay any gratuity.

Steve’s verdict: “If you were to include a service charge automatically, you would have to tell everyone who walks in that you’re adding a 20 percent service charge. I don’t support waiters deciding who they’re going to attach a tip to. That’s not their job — that’s management’s job — and they need to have a very well thought-out policy about why they’re doing that.”

6. MISCELLANEOUS

- THINK TWICE ABOUT BEING RUDE TO YOUR WAITER. Many CEOs say the way a potential employee treats a waiter offers insight into that person’s character and ability to lead, according to an article in USA Today. And a 2005 survey of 2,500 members of It’s Just Lunch, a dating service for professionals, found that being rude to waiters ranked No. 1 as the worst in dining etiquette, at 52 percent, way ahead of blowing your nose at the table, at 35.

- When you say, “I’ll have the pasta Alfredo,” it tells me two things: You aren’t interested in trying new things, and you don’t eat out much. Restaurants put this dish on their menus because it’s “safe,” it sells, and it’s cheap to make. —JR

- Random article on tipping your taxi driver, bellman,  doorman, cloakroom attendant, hotel maid, tour guide etc.

Courtesy of Readers Digest Magazine.

Return to our home­page to learn more about cus­tom dress shirts.

–Jay

1) It’s all in the bag.

a. Alenjandro Ingelmo duffle.  Much loved.

b. Hold-all bag.  Much loved.  Brand?  Couldn’t say.

“Any traveling man needs a holdall for those weekend jaunts or three-day business trips.”  (askmen.com)

The plain toe derby’s, 5 button cuff single breasted two button (marvelous buttons) enclosure jacket and jeans that drape more than well divert your attention… I know this.  Pay heed, it’s all in the bag.

c. Jerome Dreyfuss buttery goat skin tote bag.  Men’s totes are becoming more and more prevalent, pay much needed heed in 2012.

“Totes are a modern approach to the classic briefcase.  Resembling an artisan’s bag, the tote is the utmost in casual business attire. Its basic design and usual soft leather exterior allots it a classic status… if purchased in a chocolate brown or black, this bag can add a touch of laid-back masculinity to any casual work wear.” (askmen.com)

d. Blind Chic, Big Bad Wolf 2 messenger bag.  “Blind Chic is a Hungarian bag manufacturer, they make really cool and affordable waxed canvas messenger backpacks. The one featured here is the Big Bad Wolf 2, it features two front pockets, one of them (high pocket) specially made for mini bike pump. The military green bag is made of waterproof military waxed cotton canvas and includes padded shoulder straps and two adjustable straps on each side.”  Courtesy of blessthisstuff.com.

2) Drop shoulder seam t-shirt sweater.  The drop shoulder seams provide the greatest casual fit.  Courtesy of Raf Simons’ Autumn/Winter 2011–2012 collection.

3) Velvet blazer: Jimi Hendrix, the epitome of Purple Haze puts your mind in a daze.  Catch him here sporting this maroon velvet blazer.  A timeless piece for your collection in cooler climates.  Go cocoa brown, rich black, maroon, dark purple, charcoal or Maserati / midnight blue…

4) Footwear, shoe game.

Oxfords (British) = Balmorals (English) = Closed Lace
Derby’s (British) = Bluchers (English) = Open Lace

Forrest Gump: My momma always said you can tell a lot about a person by their shoes, where the go, where they’ve been…

Walk on air, tippy toe around the world with something sporty on thy feet.  Here is some direction, always seek perfection, I hope this is inspiration…

a. Antonio Maurizi wingtip balmorals (closed lace): The W extending mid way thru the foot signifies the wing tip (if the wing extended thru to the back-of-the-foot / heel it’d be considered a longwing); best when worn in a formal business setting.  This pair shows nil brogue perforations aka holes in the medallion (area above the toes) and elsewhere.  Such perforations serve as design aesthetics in contemporary use and served as drain holes in the old age, as brought into existence by the Irish and Scottish.  The more perforations the less formal.  If you wear suits daily you should rotate at minimum three pairs of balmorals.  Magnificent Bastard finds this same pair too lengthy as in “the toe shape doesn’t plot high enough.”  I prefer pointy & long although without trying on the pair I can’t say much.  From the looks of it, I see a flattering construction of a dress shoe.

b. Berluti

i. The Piercing collection.  The name says it all–I prefer such a pointy toe.  Shown are whole cut balmorals.  Definitely acceptable with a dinner suit.  

c. Gaziano & Girling Ltd.  Here are balmoral’s with minimal brogue on the medallion.  Given the brogue and screaming brown hue, this pair is unacceptable when coupled with a dinner suit; nor is the shoe whole cut (made entirely of one piece of leather).  One may sport glossy plain toe oxfords as opposed to whole cuts with a dinner suit and that’d be considered acceptable unless of course, dinner suits are of daily occasion for thee.  If wearing calf skin plain toe oxfords with a dinner suit, you must polish, polish and polish that calf skin to illustrate a glossy shine.  Patent leather whole cut oxfords or patent leather plain toe oxfords with dinner suits are the norm.  Sorry, this deems a post in and of itself.  The square toe illustrated here is out.  Go pointier and rounder.

d. Gaziano & Girling.  Two tone, half suede, half calf skin balmoral wingtips.  Well done.  These work best with formal business attire and may be dressed down with jeans and a sports coat.

e. Go casual with Neil Barret’s artisan bonding collection…

f. Paul Smith Collection.  Loomis Chukkas bring the ruckus…

g. Ronnie Fleg

i. Ronnie Fleg Delancey Boot.  Got swagger, can’t knock the hustle.  I don’t enjoy using the term swagger but I couldn’t help myself.

ii. Ronnie Fleg Seneca Boot.  Swagger to the max.  These are benevolent.  I don’t enjoy using the term swagger but I really, really couldn’t help myself.


h. Zonkey Boots

i. Walk miles in style…

ii. Walk the Saharan in these Zonkey’s.  Pull out your tongue like MJ and wiggle it with Monitor Lizards, slip-n-slide with Sand Vipers, conspire with Deathstalker Scorpions and take a minute in the fast lane to run sideways on the desert highway with flightless Ostrich.  I prefer all black desert boots with a minimalist heel but these will suffice.
 iii. Who needs toe warmers when walking wonders in the Zonkey collection.  Plain cap-toe wool collection…

i. H by Hudson Hudson

i.  Mcgeachy shoes.  Hybrid fabric, multi-tone, half plaid wool, half calf skin…

ii.  Mcgeachy shoes.  Hybrid fabric, multi-tone, half plaid wool, half calf skin.  I call it the urban desert collection…

iii. Nickel Derby’s in brown (plain toe).  I’d only sport these with jeans.  Only with jeans.

j. Patta Kangaroos Hiking Boots.  Who needs a bike when you hike, everyday is a hike, if you need a LIKE sport these, be a good sport, tell the haters take a hike…

k. Common Projects Calf Velvet Shoe, fellas pay heed…

l. Saucony… retro

m. Alden.  Blue suede tassel loafers.  Inspiration courtesy of Shoe Snob.

n. Pierre Corthay.  Parisian bespoke shoemaker.  If you’re a novel observer of footwear I advise you click on Pierre Corthay above (I’ve linked it), browse the collections and read snippets about the collections.

o. TOMS.  I save the best for last.  TOMS was founded on the simple premise, “For every pair you purchase TOMS will give a new pair to a child in need.  One for one.”  Shown here are black wool fleck fleece Botas (Highlands).  Courtesy of TOMS.com.

5) Hat game

a. Borsalino, bowler / derby hat.  “A bowler is a sturdy hat with a rounded crown. The brim of the hat extends out a few inches and is similarly rounded. The origins of the hat date back to approximately 1850. The bowler hat got its name from the makers of the hat – Thomas Bowler and William Bowler. Historians believe the bowler hat was created as a stylish way to protect the head when on horseback.  Charlie Chaplin, as well as Laurel and Hardy, were know for their bowler hats. In the United States, a bowler hat is known as a “derby,” while in England it’s called a bowler.”  Courtesy of accessories.about.com.

A phenomenal combo when worn with a paletot overcoat (paletot is depicted below in the post).  Bowlers don’t suit me.  Barbisio makes a fine bowler.

b. Barbisio fedora / trilby / Indiana Jones hat / Humphrey Bogart hat / gangster hat.  “A fedora is made of soft felt and is most recognizable by its pinched front and the crease that travels lengthwise on the crown. The brim extends out and is sometimes bent down over the eyes. Most fedora hats feature a hat band.  Fedoras first appeared in the late 1800s, however this style of hat didn’t become popular until the 1930s. Still popular today, fedoras are often associated in modern times with wealth and class. Men ranging from Humphrey Bogart to the fictional Indiana Jones are known for their fedora hats.”  Courtesy of accessories.about.com.

c. Barbisio bucket hat / Gilligan’s hat (Gilligan’s Island) / sailor hat / dixie cup hat
d) I save the best for last.  The south side of Chicago is deemed “The hat capital of the world.”  I highly recommend those in and around the city to visit Optimo Hat Co.  Click here to watch their video.

6) Overcoat / morning coat / top coat.  How does a young spank decide on when to wear what type of coat?

a. “The Paletot has a wide spectrum of use and is the ideal companion for a number of occasions.  In a plain navy cloth, it is the perfect city topcoat that can be worn with pin striped suits as well as with  tuxedos or even tailcoats. It is also a great choice for a Stroller suit or a morning coat. With the addition of a detachable fur collar or lapels and cuffs of matte silk, it becomes a very special evening overcoat. It looks particularly dapper with a contrasting velvet collar.”

“If you are looking for one coat that is suitable for almost all occasions, then a Paletot made of flannel or tweed in charcoal or navy might be the best choice. For example, a plain dark gray and blue tweed Paletot can be worn with a plaid tweed suit as well as with a business suit or evening wear and I am sure the wearer will always look quite well put together.  Especially for students or gentlemen with a limited budget, the Paletot is an ideal topcoat that is suited for such a wide range of events and occasions. Later in life, you can upgrade and refine your topcoat wardrobe, but there is always room for a good Paletot.”  Courtesy of gentlemansgazette.com.

By the way, popping the collar on an overcoat is acceptable; one being style and two, to protect thy neck from sheets of ice.  Popping collars on garments other than coats is usually unacceptable although I am guilty of it from time to time  (only during casual occasions within a close circle of friends) given my neck is quite long.

Anything double breasted makes you look fatter than you are.  The 4 x 2 button enclosure is quite unique although it adds the flare.  This subject deems a post of its own.

b. Seamless shoulders work best in formal business attire, they drape exquisitely.  Courtesy of Raf Simons’ 2012 collection.  The purple here screams too loud for my camouflage self.  The tailored, body contoured, fitted look is not going away.  The extra relaxed look as shown here comes and goes and it’s trending big for 2012.

7) Hoodie weather.  Keep a set of quality hoodies.  Pay close attention to the quality of the hood itself as I prefer a heavier hood.

a. ASAP Rocky here of NY is seen in some funny looking camouflage capris and in a hoodie for his boogie night ahead.

b. Yelawolf.  In an interview when Sway asked Yela of his first encounter with Eminem, Yela cites Eminem introduced himself as, “What up, I’m Marshall.”  Funny isn’t it, as Yela responded, “Yeah I know dog.”  We found that funny.  Watch the interview.  Catch Yela in a hoodie here.  The boy has style, you reckon?

Scarves.  Decorating oneself in a scarf is a style in and of itself not to mention the plethora of scarf knots that further signify your niche.  Pay heed to this extra long scarf, courtesy of Burberry Prorsum.  BTW, nice duffle.

When in scarf talk, a staple collection is inclusive of tartans in wool (merino), fine cottons/cashmeres in solid neutral hues–in fine herringbone or twill accompanied by fringe tassels, cable-knits, cashmeres in houndstooth with fringe tassels etc. and for those more fashion forward, silk stoles.  Such neckwear has become an imperative accessory to the well attired man allowing gentlemen to add that much needed flair to their ensemble.  The variations are endless.  When suited in solid attire go with a plaid or striped scarf.  The scarf doesn’t have to match your tie, rather make it compliment your complexion and outfit.  Fringe adds that touch of upper echelon class.  If you’re not dodging wind chill and sheets of ice, let the scarf knot hang loose around thy neck.  Get some gloves too.  No one likes a cold handshake… be a man!  Gin Ando at ManofTheHouse.Com says, “A cashmere or merino scarf in a solid, subdued color adds a sort of finality to the outfit—a sense of closure brought on by connecting both color and formality of an overcoat and trousers. The cost of cashmere, when it’s that close to your neck, is worth every penny.“


9) Drop crotch denim.  Marithé et François Girbaud denim.  Wow, very stylish; I haven’t had a pair of Girbaud’s since my university days.

10) Parka.

A parka is a winter jacket with an attached hood trimmed with a fur ruff.  The aboriginal parka pulls over the head and covers to the mid-thigh.  The hood is very deep, especially in places like barrow which experience ground blizzards.  The body and sleeves are often sewn of caribou, ground squirrel or sealskin.  Wolverine or wolf is used for the fur ruff.  In Eskimo communities like Barrow, Kotzebue and Nome, the slim legs and formidable claws of the wolverine are used as decorations that depend from the shoulder onto the front of the parka.  Front legs are used for men’s parkas; back legs, which have longer fur, for women’s parkas.

Contemporary fancy or dress parkas lean toward velvet, corduroy or velveteen on the outside, with a lining and trim of wolf, fox, rabbit or polar bear fur.  They usually zip down the front.  Everyday parkas may be liked with Thinsulate TM or quilted fabric, wit fur trim only around the hem, cuffs and hood.  Modern hoods may be only half as deep as traditional North slope hoods; they act more as photogenic frames for the face than as protection from subzero wind.

Muskrat and hare are the least priced furs available, and commonly used for children’s parkas.  For Alaska Native adults, parkas may be sewn of sea otter.  The most expensive parkas are sewn entirely of wolf or wolverine.

Making a fur parka is a labor intensive process that, traditionally, begins with the trapping of the animals whose fur is required.  Then the pelts must be tanned.  In times past, urine was saved and used for tanning.  Repeatedly kneaded and handled over many days, home tanned furs are softer and more resilient than furs commercially tanned with chemicals.  Trim may include borders of non-Alaskan material, such as light and dark calfskin chevrons or calfskin with village scenes inked onto it.

The above content is quoted from Alaska’s Arts, Crafts and Collectibles by Ann Chandonnet (Chandonnetjuneau@gci.net) and courtesy of alaskahouseny.org.

For those not in the Arctic, a recommendation is the Alpha Industries parka in cocoa brown.
Alpha Industries has portrayed the great ability to cross the lines of military to fashion forward rather easily.  Find their historic timeline here.

If you’d like to drop $950 on a vintage sheepskin B-7 Alpha Industries Parka here’s what to expect…

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–Jay

Esquire has had the privilege to interview Clooney on multiple occasions.  Clooney’s wise words always amaze me.  His genuine charisma imbues the world over.

Check out the interview: Clooney | The Meaning of Life

To delve deeper into Clooney’s mind, read George Clooney’s Thoughts for Today, courtesy of Esquire Magazine.

With regard to fashion, Clooney’s selection of attire is timeless.  Find him embodied in modern cut dark charcoal suits, dress shirt sans tie and sleek black oxfords.  Either two botton or three button enclosure suits with a notch lapel, flap pockets at the hip, and a rear center vent.  “The trousers should be without pleats or cuffs; this gives the suit the kind of modern European look George Clooney likes to sport.”  (Courtesy of Askmen.com)

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